Nuoc Cham Dipping Sauce

In a small bowl combine 2 Tbsp. sugar (or 3 Tbsp. maple syrup), 3 Tbsp. lime juice, and the warm water. Taste; if needed, add the remaining 1 1/2 tsp. sugar (or 1 Tbsp. maple syrup) and/or 1 Tbsp. lime juice. If there's an unpleasant tart-bitter edge, add rice vinegar to fix flavor.

Stir in fish sauce. (How much you use depends on the brand and your own taste. Aim for a bold, forward finish that's a little gutsy.) Add garlic and, if desired, chiles. Keep sauce at room temperature up to 8 hours before serving. Makes 1 cup.