Easy Wok-Fried Greens

1. In a small bowl whisk together the oyster sauce, fish sauce, brown sugar (if using), and 2 Tbsp. water; set aside.

2. In a wok or large skillet, heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil over medium-high until shimmering. Add garlic and Roasted Chile Powder and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add greens and sauce mixture. (If using greens with thick stems, add the sliced stems to the pan first, cooking 1 to 2 minutes before tossing in the leaves.) Cook, stirring frequently and adding a tablespoon of water at a time if the pan looks dry, until leaves are wilted and stalks are tender, 3 to 5 minutes. (Your timings will vary depending on the type of green(s) you're using. Spinach wilts almost immediately; sturdier greens like broccoli rabe and chard take a bit longer.) Sprinkle with pepper. Serve immediately. Serves 2 to 4.

Pepper's Roasted Chile Powder

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread 2 cups dried red chiles (such as Thai chiles, arbol peppers, or japones chiles) evenly across a sheet pan and roast about 6 minutes, watching closely to make sure they don't burn. The chiles are done when they change color from red to a very dark reddish brown. Transfer chiles to a plate and let cool completely, about 30 minutes. Place them in a mortar and grind with the pestle until they're the size of red pepper flakes. (Or use a spice grinder or small blender on high 10 to 15 seconds; make sure the blender is totally dry.) Store the chile powder in an airtight container at room temperature for 3 months or up to 1 year in the freezer. Makes 3/4 to 1 cup.