Home Improvement Ideas Home Remodeling DIY Built Ins How to Build a Dry Bar Get the look of a fancy built-in bar for less. Build a frame around a prefinished upper cabinet and a mini fridge with inexpensive stock lumber to create this custom piece of furniture in a few hours. By Caitlin Sole Caitlin Sole Instagram Caitlin is the senior digital home editor at Better Homes & Gardens, where she covers all things home, including decorating and interior design, cleaning and organization, paint and color, home improvement, and more. She is a writer and editor with nearly a decade of interior design education and expertise. She has vast experience with digital publishing, including SEO, photoshoot production, video production, eCommerce content, print collaboration, and custom sales content. Caitlin graduated with a bachelor of journalism, with an emphasis in magazine editing, as well as a minor in textile and apparel management from the University of Missouri-Columbia. She also received a multicultural certificate. Caitlin regularly attends trade shows and industry press conferences for market research and continued education. Learn about BHG's Editorial Process Published on August 9, 2018 Share Tweet Pin Email Project Overview Working Time: 5 hours Total Time: 2 days Skill Level: Intermediate Make movie nights, game days, and impromptu parties extra special with a well-equipped dry bar that doubles as storage. Perfect for any room with a blank wall, a power outlet, and a little open floor space, this DIY bar design can be customized to fit your lifestyle. Start with a mini refrigerator, purchase an upper cabinet you love, then build an attractive waterfall frame using affordable stock lumber. A custom toe-kick for the cabinet lets you match the height of your fridge for a built-in look on a budget. New cabinet hardware adds the perfect finishing touch. Once you've installed the custom dry bar, stock it with your favorite games, beverages, books, and anything else you need for a fun night at home. See more weekend projects from this basement makeover here! What You'll Need Equipment / Tools 1 Measuring tape 1 Miter saw 1 Clamps 1 Drill 1 Paintbrush 1 Sandpaper 1 Tack cloth 1 Rubber gloves 1 Lint-free rag 1 Stud finder 1 Nail gun Materials 1 Mini refrigerator or wine refrigerator 1 Stock upper cabinet 1 1x3 craft board 1 Wood glue 1 1-1/2-inch screws 1 Paint 1 Stock lumber, size dependent on fridge 1 Wood stain 1 1x6 plywood board 1 1-1/2-inch pneumatic nails 1 Wood filler 1 Clear polyurethane 1 Cabinet knobs or pulls Instructions Install Cabinet Toekick First, measure your mini refrigerator. The rest of the project will be based around its dimensions. Once you've determined its height, you will build a toe-kick for your stock upper cabinet so that the fridge and cabinet are the same height. Make sure to purchase an upper cabinet; a base cabinet will likely be deeper than your fridge. To build a toe-kick, cut a 1x3 craft board down to size. You'll need four pieces that form a rectangle to fit the base of the cabinet. Use wood glue and clamps to form a rectangle with the cut craft boards, then drill together with 1-1/2-inch screws.To attach the toe-kick to the cabinet, line up the craft board rectangle with the base of the cabinet. Attach with wood glue; let dry. Drill through the bottom of the cabinet into the craft boards with 1-1/2-inch screws to secure. Paint the toe-kick in a shade that matches your cabinet, or paint the entire cabinet and toe-kick in your desired color. Cut and Stain Wood Next, cut your stock lumber. The size of lumber will depend on the dimensions of your fridge and cabinet. You'll need two pieces that form the sides and one piece for the top. Once cut to size, the boards should be flush to the front of your fridge when butted against the wall.To find the length of your surface, combine the width of the refrigerator and cabinet, then add four to six inches. This will account for mitered edges and allow the fridge to properly ventilate. Once you have this measurement, cut the surface length to size with mitered corners on both ends. Next, measure the height of your fridge and add 1 inch to account for a mitered edge. Cut the board, with one side mitered to line up with the top surface piece. Repeat to create a second side board. You should now have three boards with mitered corners that fit together to form an upside-down U shape.Once you've finished all your cuts, sand any rough edges and wipe free of sawdust with a tack cloth. Use a lint-free rag to stain all sides of your three cut boards, including the mitered edges. Let dry before continuing to build. Assemble and Install Sides Connect the two side boards with the 1x6 plywood board using a drill and 1-1/2-inch screws to form an H shape. The mitered edges of the side pieces should face up. The 1x6 board will be installed against your wall, and the height at which you attach it to the side boards will depend on your outlet placement. Make sure it will not cover the wall outlet needed for your fridge.Use a stud finder to locate the studs nearest your outlet. Attach the assembly to the wall by drilling through the 1x6 board into the wall studs with 1-1/2-inch screws. Remove Wall Trim (Optional) To install your bar flush with the wall, you may want to remove baseboard trim along the wall where you'll place it. To do so, use an oscillating trim saw to cut the section you'd like to remove, then use a putty knife and pry bar to pull the trim away from the wall. Place Cabinet and Fridge Place the cabinet flush to the front of the frame and butted against the wood side panel. There will be a gap between the back of the cabinet and the wall. Next, place the mini fridge next to the cabinet and plug it into the outlet. The fridge should be flush to the front of the wood frame, with space on both sides it for ventilation. The amount of space recommended varies based on each model. Refer to your mini fridge's manufacturer's guidelines for best practices. Install Wood Top Place the final board on top of the assembled frame. Align the mitered edges, then glue, clamp, and let dry. Use a nail gun and pneumatic nails to attach the top to the sides, carefully nailing through the side pieces. Secure the cabinet to the wood frame by drilling through the top and side of the cabinet with 1-1/2-inch screws. Install Hardware and Finish If needed, patch any holes with wood filler and smooth with sandpaper. Apply a second coat of stain to the exterior, let dry, then finish with a clear coat of polyurethane. If desired, swap out the cabinet hardware for new knobs or pulls using the provided screws.