Home Improvement Ideas Plumbing Installations & Repairs How to Run Copper Supply Lines Follow this copper supply line installation tutorial to repair or replace water supply lines in your home. By Caitlin Sole Caitlin Sole Instagram Caitlin Sole is the senior home editor at BHG. She is a writer and editor with nearly a decade of interior design expertise. She has vast experience with digital media, including SEO, photo shoot production, video production, eCommerce content, print collaboration, and custom sales content. Learn about BHG's Editorial Process Updated on July 5, 2022 Share Tweet Pin Email Project Overview Total Time: 4 hours Skill Level: Intermediate Running supply lines is a tough, but important job for a homeowner to understand. While it may seem intimidating at first, with the right tools and tips, this is a job that doesn't require professional help. Follow along with our step-by-step instructions to get the job done right, the first time! Must-Know Plumbing Codes for a Successful Remodel Copper is the preferred material for supply lines in most locales, although flexible or rigid plastic is permitted in some areas. Practice cutting copper pipe and sweating joints before you start. Copper supply lines are usually routed so they do not cross drainpipes or vents. In most cases, it's easier to make the horizontal runs in the crawlspace or basement. Long runs and bends lower water pressure slightly. How to Run Pipes Through Walls and Floors Hammer arresters (Step 3) prevent banging noise when you turn off a faucet. Copper pipe is easily punctured or dented, so position it out of harm's way and install nailing plates to the studs to protect pipes against errant nails. Hot water is always on the left, cold water on the right. What You'll Need Equipment / Tools 1 Drill 1 Bit and bit extender 1 Propane torch 1 Fiber shield 1 Tubing cutter 1 Multi-use wire brush 1 Groove-joint pliers 1 Carpentry tools for installing braces 1 Damp rag Materials 1 Copper pipe and fittings 1 Flux 1 Solder Instructions Drill Holes For Copper Supply Lines Consult the manufacturer's instructions to position pipes for the shower faucet, sink, and toilet. For example, the shower faucet in this plan calls for vertical pipes 10 inches apart. Use a spade bit attached to a bit extender to drill holes in the center of the wall plate if possible. Install Braces for Supply Lines Install crossbraces so you can anchor the pipes firmly. Cut pieces of 2x4 or 1x4 to fit snugly between studs and attach them by drilling pilot holes and driving screws. If you plan to install a pedestal sink, attach a 2x6 or a 3/4-inch plywood brace (shown) for its bracket. Arrange Copper Supply Lines Tie into existing copper supply lines. Hot and cold stub outs are usually 8 to 10 inches apart and 19 to 23 inches above the floor; consult the manufacturer's instructions to be sure. A toilet stub out is usually 8 inches above the floor.Dry-fit a complete assembly for the sink and the toilet. For each stub out, use a tee fitting, a 6-inch length of pipe (which you will cut off later), and a cap to protect the pipe. Install a hammer arrester to each. Sweat the Pipes Sweat all the parts. Anchor the pipes with at least one clamp―preferably two―at each stub out as shown. Everything You Need to Know About Venting for Plumbing Work Attach Copper Supply Strap A copper supply strap attaches to the face of the studs. Pipes fit into notches or holes, sized and spaced for correct placement. The pipes can be soldered onto the strap using the same techniques as for sweating fittings.A drop-ear elbow makes the most secure attachment. If you use one, the hammer arrester must be connected to a tee and an elbow just below the drop-ear elbow. Insert a brass threaded nipple into the elbow. Use Elbows To run copper supply lines around an obstruction such as a drain or vent pipe, use four 45-degree elbows. This arrangement makes for smoother water flow and less loss of water pressure than using 90-degree elbows. How to Install Plumbing Vent Lines in Your Bathroom Cut Notches Another option is to cut notches rather than holes and run copper supply lines in front of the vent pipes. If you do this, be sure to install protective nailing plates, or else the pipes could be punctured by a nail when the drywall is installed.