No matter what the job, things go more smoothly with the right tools. Laying carpet is no exception. You probably have some of the basic tools: a utility knife, tape measure, hacksaw, straightedge, chalk line, and awl.
If you plan to stretch the carpeting, you'll need to rent several other items. (With integral-pad carpeting, you can get by without all the rented gear.)
Before you start with your DIY carpet installation, unroll the carpet and padding goods in a separate room to make sure that you have the amount of carpet you ordered and that the carpet is free of defects.
Prepare the room by removing all furniture and baseboard shoe moldings. Plane down all high spots in the floor and fill wide cracks or dips with floor leveling compound. For badly worn floors, you should install underlayment.
Before you begin laying carpet tiles or wall to wall carpets, you'll need the following:
Tackless strip creates a framework over which carpeting is stretched and held in position. When laying out the strip, make sure the pins face the adjacent wall or opening. Position 1/2 inch from the wall and nail in place (see Illustration 1). For concrete floors, use adhesive.
Lay the carpet padding within the framework and cut it to size with a utility knife. Make sure the side with the slick membrane faces up and that the padding does not overlap the tackless strip (see Illustration 2). Nail or staple the carpet padding in place, paying special attention to seam lines and edges. If the floor is concrete, roll back one section of padding at a time and spread pad adhesive. Lay the carpet padding back in place.
To abut a floor covering other than carpeting, nail a metal threshold strip with gripper pins to the floor (see Illustration 3). Use a metal threshold and hammer the lip flat using a protective board.
To finish off where one carpet section adjoins another, seam the two carpet pieces together. Trim the carpet edges straight and butt them carefully. Fold back both and lay heat-seating tape along the floor where the seam will fall. Move the heated iron slowly along the tape. (See Illustration 4.) As the adhesive melts, press the edges of the carpeting into it with your other hand. Weight down the seam for a few minutes after joining the carpeting.
Another way to finish an edge is to fold the carpeting under itself (see Illustration 5). If you choose to fold the carpeting, be sure to stop the carpet padding short.
Integral-pad carpeting is bonded to its own cushioned backing, thus eliminating the need to use a carpet pad. It's ideal for applying directly on concrete floors. In small spaces, such as baths and closets, you can cut the carpeting to fit and lay it without carpet tape. Edges have a tendency to curl in time, however, so it's best to anchor big pieces with double-faced tape. Clean the floor well before you begin because tape won't adhere properly to a dirty surface.
Make sure piles fall in the same direction. Allow about 1 inch extra all around.
Join any seams by folding back one piece and drawing a line on the floor along the other piece.
Center double-faced tape on the line and stick it to the floor. Check the seam before you peel off the tape's paper.
Press one piece of carpeting into place and apply seam adhesive along its edge to cement the backings together.
Press the carpeting firmly against the tape, using a rolling pin. Brush the pile lightly for an invisible seam.
Fold back the carpeting from the walls and make a tape border. Smooth the tape well before removing paper.
Pull carpeting taut, then drop onto tape. Smooth edges with your hands so the tape adhesive gets a good grip.
Trim off excess carpet with a utility knife and tamp edges down. The pile will hide minor irregularities.
Finish by installing or replacing the base shoe molding. Nail molding to the baseboard, not the floor.