Home Improvement Ideas Doors Door Repairs & How-To How to Frame a Closet Door Make your dream closet a reality by building it from scratch. Get started with our tips for framing the doors. By Caitlin Sole Caitlin Sole Instagram Caitlin Sole is the senior home editor at BHG. She is a writer and editor with nearly a decade of interior design expertise. She has vast experience with digital media, including SEO, photo shoot production, video production, eCommerce content, print collaboration, and custom sales content. Learn about BHG's Editorial Process Updated on June 7, 2022 Share Tweet Pin Email Project Overview Total Time: 6 hours Whether you're building a new closet, or just adding more privacy, framing for the door is an important step. The term "framing" here refers to installing the jambs into a rough opening for bypass or bifold doors. These closet doors are not available as prehung units. A 6-foot-wide closet opening is the most common, but you can install closet doors in an opening of just about any width. Sets of bifolds are available in a variety of widths (in multiples of 2 inches) and bypass doors can be cut to any width desired. The standard height is 80 inches (the same as for an entry door). If you have an older home with 9- or 10-foot ceilings, this can leave you with unusable space above the doors. Either build shelves with small doors above the closet, or custom-make bypass doors that are tall enough to suit your situation. For this project, you'll need to be skilled at measuring, using a level, cutting, and fastening. Plan to set aside at least half a day for this project—once the rough framing is completed, it will take about three hours to build a finished frame (jambs) for a closet. How to Install a Pocket Door That Stylishly Saves Space What You'll Need Equipment / Tools Miter box or power mitersaw Circular saw Measuring tape Hammer Drill Level Framing square Materials Jamb stock or 1x lumber the same thickness of your walls Casing Finishing nails Shims Instructions Cut a Rabbet Rabbet joints at the corners are stronger and neater looking than simply butting two pieces of wood together. You may be able to buy jamb stock that already has rabbets. If not, mark a line 3/4 inch from the end. Set a circular saw to cut 1/4 to 3/8 inch deep and make a series of cuts, starting at the line. Remove as much of the wood as you can by tapping gently with a hammer. Clean the joint with a wood chisel. Related content: 10 Smart Strategies for Organizing Clothes in the Space You Have Build Header and Opening If you don't already have one, build a wall for the closet, with a header above. A header that spans 6 feet should be made of 2x8s or larger, even if it's not load-bearing. Check that the opening is the correct size for the bifold or sliding doors you will install. Measure the diagonals to be sure that the opening is at least within 3/8 of an inch square, and ensure that the sides are plumb and the header is level.Finish the opening by installing drywall on each side. Buy three pieces of jamb stock—two for the sides and one for the header—that are the same width as your wall's thickness. If your wall is an odd thickness, rip pieces of 1x finish-grade lumber to the correct width. Cut and Assemble Cut the jamb sides and head to length, taking into account the depth of the rabbets in the sides. On the floor, lay out the parts and measure to make sure the assembly will fit the opening and doors. Assemble them with nails or drill pilot holes and drive the screws. Cut and Attach Casing Cut pieces of casing molding, making 45-degree miters at the corners. Scribe a reveal line along the edge of the jambs, cut the casing pieces, and attach the casing to the jamb with 3d finishing nails. Check with a framing square as you work. Troubleshooting Common Door Problems Remove Covering If you have covered your floor to protect it during construction, remove the covering from the doorway area—it's tough to remove and cut around the jamb and trim later. Position Frame Tilt the frame into the doorway. On one side, check the jamb for plumb and press the casing against the wall. Tack (partially drive) several 6d finishing nails or trimhead screws to hold it in place. Check for Level Check the corners are square, and the header is level—you may need to raise or lower the jamb on either side. Tap in shims from either side and tack nails or screws. Finishing Touches Check again for square. If possible, temporarily place the closet doors into the opening to be sure they and their hardware will fit with consistent gaps all around. Finish driving the nails or screws. Cut and install the casing inside the closet.