An espalier is a living fence created by training small trees into decorative patterns. Here's how to create an espalier in your own yard.

June 09, 2015
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Espaliered camellia

Using standard pruning techniques, you can train dwarf fruit trees to form a living wall that will enhance your yard's privacy and provide beauty and fresh produce. In an espalier (pronounced es-PAL-yay), plants grow along a usually flat, symmetrical framework against a wall, trellis, or freestanding support. Frequent pruning and tying of new growth directs the plants into a decorative pattern such as intersecting diamonds, or horizontal arms or elbows.

What You'll Need

Select fruits that are disease-resistant, like this 'Jonafree'dwarf apple.

Plan your espalier to meet your needs. If you want fruit, select a dwarf apple, peach, or pear that is rock-solid hardy in your area. For a purely ornamental fence, choose a blooming tree or shrub such as flowering crabapple, magnolia, or doublefile viburnum.

Although creating an espalier isn't particularly difficult, it does take time. Expect to wait three years for fruit, and plan to spend some time each year doing light pruning and training of branches.

Supplies:

  • three or more plants (dwarf fruit trees, for example)
  • posthole digger (optional)
  • 4x4 posts (treated for soil contact or rot resistant cedar or similar wood)
  • 2x4 top rail, 8 feet long
  • 14-gauge wire
  • hand pruners
  • cloth-covered wire plant ties

Step 1: Create a Support

Select an overall pattern for your espalier. (For our example, we selected a diamond pattern.) Build an appropriate framework of posts (8 feet apart), a top rail, and heavy-gauge wire horizontal supports. Stretch wire tautly from post to post, spaced vertically at 1-foot intervals, to create a framework. If you train trees against a wall, leave 12 inches between the structure and the support system to allow for maintenance and air circulation. Plant 2- or 3-year-old dwarf trees at least an arm's length apart.

Step 2: Anchor the Plants

Make planting holes at least twice the diameter of the plant's root ball. Plant trees slightly in front of the wire supports. Refill the planting holes and water thoroughly. Water young trees weekly during their first summer and fall if rain is lacking. Cut off branches extending to the back or front; leave branches reaching to the sides. If you train trees along a wall, position a nail or an eye hood in the wall near intersecting branches. Loosely twist a plant tie around the branches and the hook.

Step 3: Train the Plants

Crisscross branches from neighboring trees to train them into the desired pattern. Twist a plant tie around the branches and the wire to secure them, leaving room for branch growth. Over the next three or so years, prune and train trees in late winter. As the trees grow, continue to cross and tie the branches to the framework, snipping unwanted growth to maintain the pattern. Remove fruit buds the first two years to concentrate the tree's energy into growing branches. Look for fruit in the third year.

Step 1: Create a Support

Select an overall pattern for your espalier. (For our example, we selected a diamond pattern.) Build an appropriate framework of posts (8 feet apart), a top rail, and heavy-gauge wire horizontal supports. Stretch wire tautly from post to post, spaced vertically at 1-foot intervals, to create a framework. If you train trees against a wall, leave 12 inches between the structure and the support system to allow for maintenance and air circulation. Plant 2- or 3-year-old dwarf trees at least an arm's length apart.

Step 2: Anchor the Plants

Make planting holes at least twice the diameter of the plant's root ball. Plant trees slightly in front of the wire supports. Refill the planting holes and water thoroughly. Water young trees weekly during their first summer and fall if rain is lacking. Cut off branches extending to the back or front; leave branches reaching to the sides. If you train trees along a wall, position a nail or an eye hood in the wall near intersecting branches. Loosely twist a plant tie around the branches and the hook.

Step 3: Train the Plants

Crisscross branches from neighboring trees to train them into the desired pattern. Twist a plant tie around the branches and the wire to secure them, leaving room for branch growth. Over the next three or so years, prune and train trees in late winter. As the trees grow, continue to cross and tie the branches to the framework, snipping unwanted growth to maintain the pattern. Remove fruit buds the first two years to concentrate the tree's energy into growing branches. Look for fruit in the third year.

Comments (2)

Anonymous
March 28, 2019
midwestcreation-sharon@yahoo.com, that’s a great question! For best results, you’ll want to set your posts in the ground with concrete—or better yet, use metal posts. Keeping wooden posts as dry as possible and firmly anchored is key to keeping rot at bay or losing your fence to wind. Also, as the article suggested, be sure to use treated wood and allow for plenty of airflow while the plants begin growing. If you decide to make the investment early on in the extra effort (or even go with concrete or brick foundations), you’ll have a living fence in a few years and may not even need the support structure later on. —BHG
Anonymous
January 3, 2019
You talk about tying the twigs and how to plant the trees, but you didn't mention how to plant the frame so it doesn't blow over. Any recommendations?