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Installing Base Molding

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Step-by-Step

1. Mark outside corners

As with all molding, for greater accuracy, hold and mark the pieces in place wherever possible (see Holding and Measuring in Place, Related Projects). For an outside corner, butt one end of the molding in place, allowing the other to extend past the corner. Make the mark exactly even with the corner.



2. Install an inside-to-inside piece

Mark and cut the piece about 1/16 inch longer than the space. If you are butting against a piece of casing, make sure the casing is well-secured so it does not move when you press against it. Install the baseboard by bending it into position. This will give you a tight fit on both sides.



Base molding joints

Base molding can be joined in several ways. Butt joints require the least skill, but may not look best. Coped joints are a type of butt joint where one piece of molding is cut on the end to follow the profile of the piece it butts against.


Achieving a professional look
  • Avoid splits. Thin stock, such as often is used for baseboard molding, is prone to splitting and cracking. Don't take chances. Wherever you will be driving a nail within 3 inches of the edge of a piece, drill a pilot hole. You may be able to simply attach a short piece of molding with construction adhesive.
  • Don't overnail. The most common mistake amateurs make when installing moldings is to put in too many nails. Drive in only as many as you need to hold the piece firmly flush against the wall.
  • Stain first, but paint second. If you will be staining molding, do it before you install it. If you will be painting, install the molding first, then paint.

 

Related Links


Facing stone, both real rock and synthetic, brings a rustic look to house walls . If you want to use real stone, get split fieldstone. It looks just like a rock wall when installed with attention to the pattern.




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