If your landscape doesn't measure up, consider how these homeowners created curb appeal.
Skill Level: Intermediate carpentry skills Time: Two weekends Estimated Cost: $250
2. Follow Step 1 of "Stepped Fence" instructions for staining wood, antiquing pipes, and -- using configuration on the detail drawing --setting posts. (Before setting in concrete, mark posts 89 inches above ground, remove from hole, and trim excess.)
3. Secure bottom rails (D) to posts by angling 3-inch screws (or toenailing) through the sides of each rail and into a post. Do the same with the middle rails (C), positioning them 48 inches below the tops of the posts. Use screws to secure one 1x2 cleat (F) to each bottom rail (D) to serve as a brace for the 1x4 slats (I); secure one 1x2 cleat (E) to each middle rail (C). Secure 1x4 slats to middle and bottom rails, using 2-inch screws and spacing slats 1/2 inch apart. Use 2-inch screws to secure the additional 1x2 cleats (E and F) over the slats.
4. Use a spade bit to drill holes into 2x2 pipe rails (G and H) for accepting 1/2-inch pipe. Space holes as shown above. Slip pipes into holes in top pipe rail (G) and bottom pipe rail (H). Screw top pipe rail (G) to top rail (B). Screw bottom pipe rail (H) to middle rail (C). To finish the top of each side of the arbor, notch top of each post to accept 2x6 beams (K). Screw crosspieces (J) between posts, just behind the top rail (B).
5. Bevel ends of 2x6 rafters (L). Taper 2x6 ridge (M) as indicated. Working on the ground, assemble the rafters and ridge. With a helper, lift the assembled roof atop the arbor; screw into place. Add decorative molding (P) to the front of each rafter (L).
6. Working on the ground, bevel 2x2 ridge cleats (N) and crosspiece cleats (O) to hold 1/2-inch copper pipe. Drill 1/2-inch holes in ridge cleats (N) and crosspiece cleats (O) to hold ends of copper pipes, spacing holes as shown. Slip pipes into the holes, and with a helper, lift the assembly in place on the roof and secure it with screws.
Use cedar, redwood, or pressure-treated pine, as desired. For glass- or acrylic-plastic-frame assembly:
2. Stain or seal wood; let dry. Brush pipe with verdigris finish, if desired. Dig postholes to below frost line, spacing them as shown. Pour 6 inches crushed rock into holes, then position posts (E) and fix plumb with temporary 2x4 braces staked to ground. Mix concrete; pour into holes to ground level. Let set two or three days.
3. To build the 6-foot fence section, secure 2x4 bottom rail (G) to posts, angling 3-inch screws or toenailing with 10d finishing nails through the sides of the 2x4 into the post. Repeat with top rail (F), positioning it 12 inches below the top of the posts. Use 2-inch screws to secure one 1x2 cleat (I and J) to each 2x4 rail; the cleats will brace the 1x4 slats (M). Space slats (M) evenly about 1/2 inch apart, securing them to cleats with 2-inch screws. Drive 2-inch screws to secure the second 1x2 cleat to the front of the slats at the top and bottom rails.
4. For glass-frame assembly, rout 1/4-inch dadoes into top and bottom rails (A and B) and 2x2 stiles (C) to accept glass panels. Screw bottom rail (B) of the glass-frame assembly to the top of the top rail (F). Pipe caulk into dado, and slide glass panels into place. Brace with 2x2 stiles (C). Pipe caulk into 2x2 top rail (A); fit onto top edge of glass panel.
5. To build the 2-foot fence section, secure top rail (F), bottom rail (G), middle rail (H), middle-rail and bottom-rail cleats (K and J), and 1x4 half-slats (L) as directed for 6-foot section.
6. Use spade bit to drill holes into middle-rail and top-rail cleats (K) for accepting 1/2-inch pipes, spacing holes as shown. Screw cleats (K) to middle rail (H). Slip pipe pieces into holes. Slip tops of pipes into holes on top rail cleat (I) and screw to top rail (F). To install glass, follow steps for 6-foot fence section. Top sections with cap (D), mitering the cap pieces at the corners and securing with 2-inch screws.
2. Prior to assembling the arbor, stain or seal all wood; let dry. Brush pipe with verdigris finish, if desired. Dig postholes to below frost line, spacing them as shown. Line bottom of holes with 6 inches crushed rock. Position 4x4 posts (E) in holes and fix plumb with temporary 2x4 braces staked to ground. Mix concrete and pour into holes to ground level. Let set two or three days.
3. Drill holes for three pipes evenly spaced in each 2x2 side rail (F). Slip pipes through holes as shown and top each pipe with a copper cap. Secure assembled 2x2s and copper pipes between posts, using 5-inch screws. Fasten 2x6 fence crosspieces (I) with 2 1/2-inch screws and 2x4 cap (A) with 5-inch screws to each side of arbor. Slip side trim pieces (G) and bottom side trim (H) between side rails (F) as shown on the detailed drawing, and secure with 4-inch screws.
4. For the glass-frame assembly, rout 1/4 inch dadoes in 2x2 top rails (B) and bottom rails (X) to hold glass panels. Screw a top rail (B) to the bottom of each cap (A). Screw stiles (D) to each post, using 4-inch screws. Fill dado with caulk and press one rail onto bottom edge of each glass piece. Screw bottom rails to posts (E), then fasten beams (J) to posts with 3-inch screws.
5. Working on the ground, assemble the rafters (K), joists (L), and ridge (M); secure with screws. With a helper, lift the assembled roof atop the arbor; secure to beams (J) with screws. Add decorative olding (N) to rafters (K) with screws. Cut notches into the two plywood panels (P) to accept the ends of the beams (J); top roof with plywood panels; nail on cedar shingles. Cut a roof cap (O) from a 2x4 and fasten to the apex of the roof with screws.
6. To add twisting bits of 3/16-inch copper pipes, drill 1/4-inch holes through the copper pipes. Slide a length of wire through each hole, and twist and curl the wire as desired. To add a pieces of copper sheet in to the wire, cut a slit in a copper disk using a hacksaw, and slide the slit over the wire. Use a small hand torch or soldering iron to secure the disk ot the wire.