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Working with Rigid Plastic Pipe

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Cutting pipe

Step-by-Step

1. Measure and cut

When measuring pipe for cutting, take the socket depth of the fitting into account (see Measuring Pipes and Fittings, Related Projects). Cut with any fine-tooth saw, using a miter box. Avoid diagonal cuts because they reduce the bonding area at the deepest part of the fitting's socket -- the most critical part of the joint.



Deburring pipe
2. Remove burrs from the cut end

After you've made the cut, use a knife or file to remove any burrs from the inside and outside of the cut end. Burrs can scrape away cement when the pipe is pushed into the fitting, seriously weakening the bond.



Testing the fit
3. Test the fitting

Dry-fit the connection. You should be able to push it in at least one-third of the way. If the pipe bottoms out and feels loose, try another fitting. Unlike copper components, plastic systems are designed with tapered walls on the inside of the socket so that the pipe makes contact well before the pipe reaches the socket shoulder.



Marking alignment guides
4. Mark for alignment

When gluing the pieces together, you will have less than a minute to correctly position the pipe and fitting before the glue sets. Draw an alignment mark across the pipe and fitting of each joint. When you fit the pieces together, the mark will indicate exactly how to position the pipe and fitting.



Applying primer
5. Clean and prime

Wipe the inside of the fitting and the outside of the pipe end with a clean cloth. If you are working with PVC or CPVC (but not ABS), coat the outside of the pipe end with a special primer. Many inspectors require purple-colored primer so they can easily see that joints have been primed.



Applying cement
6. Apply cement to pipe

Use the cement designed for the material you're working with. Immediately after you've primed, swab a smooth coating of cement onto the pipe end.



Priming fitting
7. Prime and cement fitting

Repeat the process on the inside of the fitting socket. Apply cement liberally, but don't let it puddle inside the fitting. Reapply a coating of cement to the pipe end.


Twist and  Hold Pipe
8. Twist and hold

Forcefully push the two together to ensure the pipe moves fully into the socket. Twist a quarter turn as you push to help spread the cement evenly. Complete the twist until your alignment marks come together. Hold the pipe and fitting together for about 20 seconds while they fuse into a single piece. Wipe away excess cement.



Sawing pipe
9. Cut off any incorrect joints

If you misalign a connection, saw it off, making sure to cut squarely. Install a new fitting with a spacer and slip coupling as shown. Cemented joints are strong enough to handle after 15 minutes, but don't run water in the line for about two hours.


 

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