With just a little effort you can have
really hot water all the time.

Hot-water dispensers are available in a variety of styles to coordinate with your kitchen decor, and the water temperature can be adjusted to suit your needs. The energy implications are negligible, say manufacturers, who point out that you may actually save money, since you're heating only water you use (as opposed to heating a teakettle full of water for one cup, for example).

• Hot-water dispenser: faucet, tank, tubes, and mounting hardware
• T fitting, nipple, and shutoff valve (see Step 4)
• Drill
• Hole saw or metal-boring hole saw
• Screwdriver
• Tongue-and-groove pliers
• Wire strippers

1. If necessary, install an unswitched (always live) electrical receptable under your sink. If one already exists, make it accessible.

 

Many sinks have a precut hole to
the right of the faucet; if yours
does not, drill as shown.

2. Make a hole in your sink. If your sink has a knockout hole of the correct size, simply punch it out from below. Otherwise, drill a hole situated so the dispenser's spout will hang over the sink. Drill through the countertop with a hole saw. If you have a stainless-steel sink, you can buy a metal-boring hole saw. Drill slowly.

 

Mount the faucet and tank.

3. Mount faucet and tank. Insert the assembly with its gasket. With a helper holding it, crawl underneath and tightly attach the washer and mounting nut. Use screws to fasten the tank mounting bracket to the wall. Make sure it is plumb and 12 to 14 inches below the underside of the countertop. Mount the tank on the bracket.

4. Install a water supply valve. First, shut off water and drain line. To supply the unit with water, tap into the hot-water line serving the sink. Cut into the line and install a standard T fitting. Add a nipple and a shutoff valve. You'll need an adapter fitting to make the transition to a flexible copper water line that matches the dispenser's supply line.

If your local building codes permit it, an easier way is to use a saddle T valve. Don't use the puncture-type saddle T, however. Although it is easier to install, it clogs easily. Instead, drill a small hole in the supply line, then secure the saddle valve clamp to the line, as shown above.

 

Make the final connections.

5. Connect the lines. Secure the two longer tubes to the tank assembly and the shorter one to the water supply tube with compression fittings. The longer tubes will be coded to make it clear where each goes. Restore water pressure and check for leaks. Always let the tank fill before plugging in or turning on the unit.