tape and pipe

Common Repairs

For a pinhole leak, dry off the pipe, and wrap it tightly with several layers of electrician's tape. Wrap it about 6 inches on either side of the hole. This is extremely temporary, but the tape should hold while you make a trip to the hardware store for a pipe clamp and rubber gasket.

pipe and clamp

An automotive hose clamp with a piece of rubber -- both available at any hardware store -- makes a somewhat better leak-stopper. Again, it works only for pinhole leaks. Wrap the rubber around the pipe, and tighten up the clamp. Be sure that the clamp itself is placed directly over the hole.

pipe and gasket

The best temporary solution to a leaking pipe is a pipe clamp specially made for this purpose. It will seal small gashes, cracks, and pinhole leaks. It also is semipermanent -- expect it to last several years. Position the rubber gasket so the hole is centered under it.

tightening clamp

Assemble the clamp pieces around the gasket, and tighten. Take care that the gasket does not move as you work. Tighten all four nuts evenly, working from nut to nut until all are tight.

If the leak is coming from a fitting, don't try to clamp it. Your best bet is plumber's epoxy. Unless the leak is a real gusher, don't shut off the water. The epoxy comes in two parts. Cut a piece of each, and knead them together until the color is uniform. Pack the epoxy into the connection by pushing it in with your thumb or a putty knife. Pack it until the leak stops.

sealing clean-out

Drain lines are less leak-prone than supply lines. Once in a while, however, a clean-out plug may seep waste water. Warn everyone in the household not to use any fixtures. Remove the plug (it may screw out or pull out). Reseal screw-in plugs by applying Teflon tape to the male threads. If it has an O-ring, replace it.

cast-iron

If you have a leak at the joint of cast-iron pipes, it is usually easy to deal with. For the hub-and-spigot type shown here, use a hammer and chisel to tamp down the soft lead that fills the joint. Don't whack the pipe hard -- you could crack it. If you have the no-hub system (see Tapping Into Cast-Iron Drain Lines, Related Projects), tightening the clamp will likely stop the leak.

blow dryer

Open the faucet the pipe supplies so any steam can escape. If it is exposed, apply heat directly with a hair dryer or a heat gun (turned to its lowest setting). Move the dryer or gun back and forth -- don't hold it in one spot.

water on pipes

Another solution for an exposed frozen pipe is to wrap a cloth around it, then pour boiling water over the cloth. Allow the water to cool, pour again, and repeat until the pipe is thawed. Be sure a faucet is open while you do this so steam can escape.

heater on pipes

If the pipes are concealed, thawing will take more time. Open a faucet. Beam a heat lamp or electric space heater at the wall containing the pipe. Monitor closely to make sure the heat doesn't damage the wall surface.