Shaping and Planing

Key Techniques
Various types and sizes of planes are available. Most carpenters use a smoothing plane or a small block plane. To help keep the blade from dulling, lay it on its side when not in use. Retract the blade into the body when storing it. If any parts become rusty, clean them with a little oil and fine steel wool. Adjust the blade so it cuts thin shavings easily; you should not have to fight against the wood.
Follow these tips when using a plane or surface-former:
It takes both hands to operate the tool, so clamp your work.
Plane with the grain.
If you get anything but a continuous, even shaving, the blade is dull or adjusted too thick, or you're planing against the grain.
To avoid nicking corners, apply pressure to the knob of the tool at the beginning of your cut and to its heel at the end of the cut.
When planing a narrow edge, grip a square-cornered block of wood against the bottom of the plane as you work.

Surface-forming tools, also known as sure-form tools, come in a variety of sizes and shapes. The one shown, above, works much like a plane. You cannot adjust the depth of the cut and it will not produce as smooth a cut as a plane, but it is easy to use.
You can regulate the cut by the way you position the tool against the material. For rough-cutting, hold the tool at a 45-degree angle to the work as you push it. For a smoother result, hold the tool parallel to the board's edge.

As long as you're shaping wood parallel to the grain, planing will go smoothly. But when you need to shape the end grain, you will be working at a 90-degree angle to the grain. A small block plane works best on end grain. Bevel the corners first, with the bottom of the bevel at the final cut line. For narrow stock, just plane in one direction. For wider material, shave from each end of the board toward the center. Finish the job by shaving off the hump that remains in the middle.
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