The first step is to find a source of the material. If your home center or hardware store doesn't carry stainless steel, check in the Yellow Pages under stainless steel or sheet metal. Find a shop that can provide pieces to the exact length you want. Often, stainless steel has to be ordered from a specialty supplier, so schedule accordingly.

 

You can use these instructions for any
metal, like the copper shown here.

• Stainless steel cut to size (see Steps 1 and 2)
• Carpenter's square
• Tape measure
• Drill
• Saber saw
• Stainless-steel screws
• Trim washers

Measure for placement and for size and square.

1. Lay out the job. If possible, measure before putting in the countertop and wall cabinets. Check that the walls are square, and measure the lengths you need. Corners are the critical areas; any variation along the length of the piece will be covered by the wall cabinet above and the countertop or backsplash below. Mark the location of every other stud.

2. Order the pieces of stainless steel you need. Double-check your measurements or provide a template to be sure you get the correct sizes.

3. Make cuts to fit around outlets, if needed. It's hard to make a straight, smooth cut in this amazingly hard material. Fortunately, the cuts around outlets can be rough because the edges will be covered up. Use a drill to start the hole, then cut the opening with a saber saw with a metal-cutting blade designed for cutting stainless steel.

 

Anchor the metal into the studs.

4. Attach the metal to the wall with screws and washers. Set the metal in place and make sure the pieces line up. Drill holes and drive stainless-steel screws, fitted with trim washers, into studs. Because the material is rigid and will be anchored by the cabinets as well, two screws driven into every other stud are adequate. As you work, support the material so it doesn't crimp or get scratched because stainless steel is expensive. Although it is extremely hard, stainless steel can be damaged during installation.

 

If corners don't want to line up,
use a corner mold.

5. If necessary, use corner molding pieces. If you have trouble getting the corners to match up, use a corner mold, attaching it to the wall with clear silicone sealant and butting each panel against it. If one wall is wavy, you can, with patience, scribe and curve-cut one of the pieces using a belt sander. If your walls are plumb, you may be able to get away without the corner trim pieces. If the walls are out of plumb, you may be able to compensate by cutting a slot in the corner and sliding a bit of one piece of steel into it.