Two DIY Bath Projects: Tile & Glass Block
Tiling a Floor
Careful measurement and preparation are key when tiling a floor.
- Tiles
- Tile adhesive
- Cement board
- Screwdriver
- Screws
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Notched trowel
- Spacers
- Tile scorer
- Tile nippers
- Wet saw (optional, and can be rented)
- Float
- Sponges
- Needle-nose pliers
- Grout
1. Remove old flooring down to the subfloor. Attach cement board to the subfloor with screws. Measure the width of the floor, halve that number, and pencil a line at that point across the floor. Repeat the process to find the halfway point of the room's length, and pencil a mark across the floor from wall to wall. (You'll end up with two lines that intersect at the room's center).
2. Before applying adhesive, place the corner of the first tile at the point where the penciled lines intersect; center other tiles along one line, leaving about 1/4 inch between them for grout lines. Arrange the tiles so the least amount of cutting is necessary. Mark their location with a pencil, then remove them. Apply adhesive, such as mastic, to a 3-foot section with the notched trowel recommended by the adhesive manufacturer (Photo 1).
3. Following the pencil marks, lay the first tile in the adhesive. Use temporary spacers for even grout lines. Continue laying tile (Photo 2) until you get to the walls; cut remaining tiles with a scorer to fit. If you need to tile around pipes or other items, use tile nippers, or consider renting a wet saw to make cutting and shaping tiles easier. Let adhesive dry as recommended by the manufacturer.
4. Remove the spacers with needle-nose pliers, then apply grout with a float (Photo 3). Let set about 15 minutes or for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer.
5. With a damp sponge, wipe grout residue from the faces of the tiles (Photo 4). Rinse the sponge frequently, and wipe tiles until all residue is removed. Let grout dry as recommended by the manufacturer.
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