After a half-day or so with a
saw, you're ready to add water
and maybe some fish. Then, plug
in the pump-and-fountain kit
and relax.

The Basics

• Pressure-treated lumber: six 8-foot 1x2s, two 8-foot 2x2s, two 8-foot 2x4s, seven 8-foot 2x8s
• Deck screws: 2-, 2-1/2-, 3-, 3-1/2-inches long
• Wood shims
• Pond liner at least 66 inches square and 35 mil thick
• Pond pump-and-fountain kit

Note: See the last page of this story for a larger, printable version of the diagram at right.

1. Cut boards. Cut 2x2s to length for the base frame, and assemble it with 3-inch deck screws (corrosion-resistant flathead screws). To prevent splitting lumber, drill countersunk pilot holes for all screws.

2. Assemble base. Crosscut 2x8s to make five 36-inch-long pieces, and place them edge to edge. Mark the last board so the overall width of the base is 36 inches, and cut to size. Put the boards face down on your work surface, center the base frame, and drive 2-1/2-inch deck screws through the base frame into the base. Then turn the base assembly over, and position it where you want the water garden. Use a level to check the base in both directions, and use tapered wood shims under the base frame to adjust it, if necessary.

3. Make boxes. Crosscut the eight 2x8 side pieces to lengths shown in the illustration, and assemble them with 3-1/2-inch deck screws into two boxes. Position the first box on the base assembly, and miter the 1x2 banding to run around its perimeter.

4. Add band. Center the banding on the joint line between the box sides and base, and fasten it with 2-inch deck screws. Make sure to drive some screws into the box sides and others into the base.

5. Add the second box. Stack the second box on top of the first, and add two more sets of banding: one straddling the joint line, and the other flush with the top of the sides. Cut a 1/2 x 1/2-inch notch at one corner to provide a neat pathway for the pump's electrical cord.