Frame Construction

No matter how pretty the piece, unless the frame is strong and well made, the furniture won't wear well. This may not be critical for pieces that are rarely used or are basically decorative accessories, but sturdy construction is vital for upholstered furniture meant for daily use.

Before you purchase upholstered furniture, consider these five buying points for frames.

Point #1: Kiln-dried hardwood, such as birch, maple, ash, or gum, is more durable than soft woods, such as pine, poplar, or fir. Particleboard is strong, but prone to splitting and chipping and is generally used in furniture of lesser quality.

Point #2: Wood joints should be mortise-and-tenon (where one piece slides into the other, as Tab A fits into Slot B for a toy or model) or dovetail (finger-like projections that fit together like gears do) and secured with glue. They're much stronger than butted and screwed joints or glued joints. The joints should fit tightly with no gaps. A frame stapled together or poorly fitted is a sure sign of inferior construction.

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Point #3: The chair or sofa should not feel light or flimsy. If it does, it may tip easily. This can be a problem for families with children or for people with impaired movement who need support to get up or down.

Point #4: Larger pieces, such as sofas or love seats, should not sag in the middle. Sagging indicates a lack of proper support and bracing. The sofa may eventually sag even more or break at that weak point.

Point #5: The coils in the seat (and sometimes back) of an upholstered piece behave like the box spring in a mattress. They give the piece firmness and stability and determine how long it will last. Zigzag, wave-shaped, or interwoven bands are more likely to sag and lose their shape than regular spring-shaped coils. Steel coil springs that are hand-tied where they meet the adjoining coils and frame offer the best stability.