Skill level: Beginning woodworker

Time to complete: One weekend, including painting

Estimated cost: $160

Download PDF of headboard assembly now!

• Tape rule
• Angle square or combination square
• Portable circular saw with straightedge guide
• Sawhorses (one pair)
• Drill
• Drill bits (1/16, 3/16 with countersink)
• C-clamps or spring clamps (2-inch or larger)
• No. 2 Phillips screwdriver (or driver bit for drill)
• Hammer
• Nail set
• Putty knife
• Sanding block with 150-grit sandpaper
• Paintbrushes
• Stud finder
• Builder's level
• (Recommended: power miter saw, table saw)

• Seven pieces of 1x4 (nominal) poplar, 6 feet long (for parts A, F, G)
• Five pieces of 1x4 (nominal) poplar, 4 feet long (for parts B, C, E)
• One sheet (48x96 inches) of 3/8-inch
• Ply-Bead beaded-board paneling (for part D)
• Wood glue
• One package No. 8x3/4-inch flathead sheet metal screws
• One package 5d (1-3/4-inch) finishing nails
• Wood filler
• One quart latex primer
• One quart latex semigloss enamel paint
• One package No. 8x2-1/2-inch drywall screws

[A] Rails
Thickness 3/4
Width 3 1/2
Length 58
Quantity 5

[B] Frame stiles
Thickness 3/4
Width 3 1/2
Length 39
Quantity 2

[C] Back stile
Thickness 3/4
Width 3 1/2
Length 38
Quantity 1

[D] Panel*
Thickness 3/8
Width 58
Length 46
Quantity 1

[E] End caps
Thickness 3/4
Width 5 1/2
Length 47 1/2
Quantity 2

[F] Hang rail**
Thickness 3/4
Width 2
Length 58
Quantity 1

[G] Wall cleat**
Thickness 3/4
Width 2
Length 58
Quantity 1

NOTES: All dimensions are in inches.

*Panel requires two pieces, cut from 48x96 sheet and overlapped at vertical edge.

**Rip 1X4 in half at a 45-degree bevel to make these two parts.

For a twin bed, reduce length of parts A, F, and G by 15 inches, and reduce panel width (D) by 15 inches. For a queen-size bed, extend length of parts A, F, and G by 6 inches and extend panel width (D) by 6 inches.

1. Start by cutting the frame parts and end caps to length from the 1X4 stock. Note in the "Section View" detail illustration in the PDF that the hang rail (F) and wall cleat (G) each feature a 45-degree bevel cut along their mating edges; rip cut along one 1X4 at a time, using a table saw or a portable circular saw with a straightedge guide. Set these parts aside for now.
2. To make the center panel (D), cut the Ply-Bead sheet into two 46-inch lengths. Note that the edges are designed to overlap, and cut the two pieces so when lapped they total 58 inches in width. The exact location of the lap joint doesn't really matter, but try to size the two "halves" so the bead layout is symmetrical at the right and left ends; this will create the same reveal after the frame is fastened.

1. Test-fit the two pieces of the center panel (D) together on a pair of sawhorses, with the beaded facedown. Drill a series of 3/16-inch countersunk holes around the perimeter, about 6 inches apart and 2 inches in from the edges. Turn the panels faceup and realign them, then glue and clamp the front and back frame rails (A) and the two frame stiles (B) in place as shown in the PDF; the outer edges of these parts should be flush with the edges of the center panel.
2. Drive 3/4-inch screws through the back face of the panel to secure the connection. Place the back stile (C) on the back face of the panel so that it straddles the panel's lap joint and has the necessary offsets for the other frame pieces that will follow (3 1/2 inches at the bottom end, 4 1/2 inches at the top end). Glue and clamp the back stile, then drive 5d finishing nails through the faces of the Ply-Bead panels into the stile. Countersink the heads with a nail set. The nails will penetrate the stile and exit its back face; flip the assembly so it's facedown on the sawhorses, then use a hammer to bend the nails over and pound them flush with the surface.
3. Next, attach the remaining frame rail (A) to the front of the panel and the hang rail (F) to the back of the panel as shown in the PDF, flush with the upper edge; glue and secure with 5d finishing nails. Finally, glue and nail the end caps (E) and the remaining frame rails (A, oriented flat) around the perimeter of the assembly as shown. Countersink all the nail heads with a nail set.

1. Use wood filler to cover the countersunk nail heads; let dry, then sand the entire assembly to remove any roughness or sharp edges. Apply a coat of primer (back and front) and let dry, then finish with one or two coats of paint. Let dry.
2. To install, test-fit the headboard against the wall to determine the height and placement in the room, then use a stud finder to locate the framing studs in that area of the wall. Use 2-1/2-inch drywall screws to fasten the wall cleat (G) to at least three studs; check for level, and position the beveled edge up, as shown, so the beveled hang rail of the headboard will nest tightly against it. Lower the headboard into place until the beveled cleats nest.