Designer Suzy Peterson-Letourneau and quiltmaker Kathy Geis combined a multitude of hand-dyed wools in their crazy-pieced creation.
"I don't like to waste a single piece of wool," Kathy says. "I often piece together small patches of wool to get a piece large enough to cut one of the pieces for my block. The resulting look goes well with the crazy-pieced technique used in the blocks."
- 6 2/3 yards of muslin for block and border foundations
- 90 -- 9 x 13" pieces of assorted felted wool in gold, red, orange, blue, green, purple, and brown for blocks
- 24 -- 9×13" pieces of assorted felted wool in black, dark gray, dark purple, and dark blue for border
- 5/8 yard of black felted wool for binding
- 4 5/8 yards of backing fabric
- Perle cotton No. 8: gold, red, orange, blue, green, purple, brown, and black
CUT AND MARK THE MUSLIN FOUNDATIONS
To make the best use of your fabrics, cut the pieces in the order given in the following sections. Cut the muslin border foundation strips the length of the fabric (parallel to the selvage).
From muslin, cut:
- 2 -- 6 1/2 × 76 1/2" border foundation strips
- 2 -- 6 1/2× 64 1/2" border foundation strips
- 16 -- 18" squares for block foundations
With a light box and a permanent marking pen, center and trace the Block Foundation Pattern found on Pattern Sheet 1 onto a muslin 18" square to make a block foundation. Be sure to trace all lines and numbers. Repeat to make a total of 16 block foundations.
CUT AND ASSEMBLE THE CRAZY-PIECED BLOCKS
The patterns are on Pattern Sheet 1. When cutting wool pieces for the blocks, don't worry about grain lines; the muslin foundation will stabilize the fabric pieces.
To felt wool, machine-wash it in a hot-water-wash, cool-rinse cycle with a small amount of detergent; machine-dry it on high heat and steam-press.
The following instructions yield one crazy-pieced block. Repeat the cutting and assembly steps to make a total of 16 crazy-pieced blocks, referring to the photograph on page 3 to help plan color placement.
1. Lay the freezer paper, shiny side down, over patterns 1 through 15. With a pencil, trace each pattern once. Cut out the freezer-paper shapes about 1/4" from the drawn lines.
2. Using a hot, dry iron, press each freezer-paper shape, shiny side down, onto a gold, red, orange, blue, green, purple, or brown wool piece; let cool. Cut out the wool shapes, cutting exactly 1/4" beyond the drawn lines. Note: Use a rotary cutter and clear acrylic ruler to cut precisely.
For easy identification of each piece, Suzy and Kathy recommend leaving the freezer-paper shapes on the wool pieces and laying them out on the Block Foundation Pattern until you're ready to sew each piece in place. Peel the freezer-paper shape off each piece before sewing.
3. Center the Pattern 1 wool piece over area 1 on a block foundation; pin in place (see Diagram 1).
4. Center the Pattern 2 wool piece over area 2 of the block foundation, then flip it back onto the Pattern 1 wool piece, aligning the edge that pieces 1 and 2 have in common; pin in place. Stitch through all layers, 1/4" from the aligned edges (see Diagram 2). Press the Pattern 2 wool piece open, pressing the seam allowance toward piece 2.
5. Center the Pattern 3 wool piece over area 3 of the block foundation, then flip it back onto the pattern 1 and 2 pieces, aligning the edge that all three pieces have in common; pin in place. Stitch and press open as before (see Diagram 3).
6. Continue adding pieces one at a time in numerical order until the block foundation is covered (see Diagram 4).
7. Trim the covered block foundation to 16 1/2" square, including the seam allowances. Baste around the cut edges of the trimmed block foundation to complete a crazy-pieced block.