Sewing Glossary

Facing A piece of fabric or nonwoven material stitched to the raw edge of fabric and then turned to the wrong side; it produces a stiffer, more substantial edging than simply hemming a raw edge; it is often incorporated into a design to conceal raw edges.

Filler cord A mesh-wrapped fiber tube used to make welting or piping. Filler cord is available in a range of closely graduated sizes; the most common size for pillow trim is 6/32-inch.

Gimp A flat braid or round cording used to trim pillows, curtains, or upholstered pieces.

Grade To trim the layers of fabric in a seam to different depths in order to eliminate bulk and create a smooth transition from the seam to the outside edge of the seam allowances.

Gusset In home sewing, a strip of fabric inserted between two panels to provide flexibility; the gusset creates a boxlike side edge between the front and back of the pillow.

Hem A finished edge; an edge of the fabric that is folded over and stitched. Usually the hem is understood to be the bottom edge.

Hemstitch Worked by hand from the wrong side of the fabric, hemstitching secures a folded edge to the fabric by means of diagonal stitches. Draw the needle through the folded edge from underneath, pick up one or two threads of the flat fabric, then insert the needle in the folded edge and draw it through. Continue in this manner to secure the hem; the stitches should be nearly invisible from the front.

High-density upholstery foam Firm polyurethane foam pads for use in cushions, bolsters, or pillows. Foam pads referred to as high density are resilient and resist crushing with heavy or prolonged use.

Interfacing Nonwoven fabric, available in varying weights, that is used to stiffen fabric and strengthen seams.

Invisible thread Nylon thread that is clear or smokey in color. When used in the top of the sewing machine, the stitches blend into the fabric.

Lengthwise grain The grain of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvages.

Lining A firmly woven, smooth-finish cotton used to back decorator fabric for a smoother, more finished appearance.

Liquid ravel preventer (seam sealant) A clear liquid adhesive applied to the cut edges of fabric or cording to prevent fraying.