The feminine shape of Amy Butler's handheld purse is accentuated by a sparkly, antique pin at the closure.
Quantities are for 44/45-inch-wide, 100% cotton fabrics. All measurements include a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.
To make the best use of your fabrics, cut the pieces in the order that follows. The patterns are on pattern below. Note: When cutting your clutch body and tab pieces (A, B, and D), you may wish to align the patterns carefully to match up the fabric motifs.
1. Referring to Diagram 1, below, center an interfacing C piece atop the wrong side of the canvas A piece, leaving 1/2 inch of canvas exposed around the outer edges; pin. Note: The interfacing pieces are cut smaller than the canvas pieces to reduce bulk in the seam allowances and to make it easier to shape the sides of the clutch.
2. Sew 1/4 inch inside the edges of the interfacing to make a front interfacing unit.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to sew the remaining interfacing C piece atop the wrong side of the canvas B piece to make a back interfacing unit.
4. Referring to Diagram 2, align the front interfacing unit, canvas side down, atop the wrong side of the green floral A piece; pin. Machine-baste 1/4 inch from the outer edges to make the clutch front.
5. Repeat Step 4 to sew the back interfacing unit atop the wrong side of the green floral B piece to make the clutch back.
1. Layer the canvas D piece on the wrong side of the green floral D piece; baste 1/4 inch from the outer edge.
2. With right sides together, layer the green floral D piece and the lining D piece. Backstitching at the beginning and end, sew together the long edges using a 1/2-inch seam to make the tab; leave the short edges open for turning (see Diagram 3).
3. Trim the seam allowances to 1/8 inch. Turn the tab right side out by pulling the narrow end through the wide end; press.
4. Tuck 1/2 inch of the wide end inside the tab; press. Tuck 3/8 inch of the narrow end inside (see Diagram 4); press. Topstitch around the tab, 1/4 inch from the outer edge.
5. Referring to Diagram 5, center and sew the hook portion of the hook-and-loop tape to the tab's lining side, 1/4 inch from the wide end.
6. Fold the clutch back in half lengthwise and finger-press a crease for a placement line. Unfold the clutch back.
7. Referring to Diagram 6, mark a placement line 3 1/2 inches above the lower edge of the clutch back on the right side. With right sides together, center the narrow end of the tab over the center crease just below the marked placement line. Backstitching at the beginning and end, edgestitch across the narrow end, then again 1/2 inch from the edgestitching.
8. Referring to Diagram 7, fold the tab over the clutch back. With 1 inch of the tab extending toward the bottom of the bag, fold the tab back on itself and up, centering it over the center crease. Press and pin. The wide edge of the tab will extend past the upper edge.
Mark and sew across the tab 5 1/2 inches above the bottom folded edge, backstitching at each edge to make a handle on the clutch back; press.
1. Fold the clutch front in half widthwise and finger-press a crease for a placement line. Unfold the clutch front.
2. Mark a placement line on the clutch front 5 inches below the upper edge at the center fold (see Diagram 8). Center and edgestitch the loop portion of the hook-and-loop tape to the clutch front's right side, just below the marked line.
3. With right sides together, align the side and lower edges of the clutch front and clutch back; pin. Using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, sew together along the side and lower edges (see Diagram 9).
4. Trim the seam allowance around the bottom curves to 1/4 inch. Using a pressing ham, press the entire seam open. Turn right side out; press. Note: Pressing the seam open will help you to get a nice finished look around the curves at the clutch bottom.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with the lining A and B pieces to make the clutch lining.
6. With the right side of the clutch body facing out and the wrong side of the clutch lining facing out, place the clutch body inside the clutch lining, aligning the side seams (see Diagram 10). Pin together the raw edges, making sure that the tab is tucked in between the clutch body and lining, out of the way.
Using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, sew together open the raw edges, leaving a 5-inch opening for turning in the center front.
7. Trim the seam allowance across the points of the clutch back, making sure not to clip into the stitching. Referring to Diagram 11, clip into the seam allowance just to the stitching line at the corners where the bag flap extends from the clutch back. Clip into the seam allowance at the center top of the clutch back.
8. Turn the clutch right side out through the 5-inch opening. Push the lining down inside the clutch, aligning the side seams; press the upper edges. To close the opening, topstitch 1/8-inch from the open edges of the clutch (see Diagram 12).
1. On one side, match up the side seams on the clutch body with the lining; pin. With the clutch body facing up, start at the top finished edge on the side seam and stitch in the ditch 3 1/2 inches down (see Diagram 13). Repeat on the other side of the clutch body.
2. To give the clutch shape, fold a 1-1/4-inch angled pleat into one side seam, beginning at the top and tapering the pleat to end 3 1/2 inches down (see Diagram 14). Press the folds in place. Repeat on the remaining side seam. Note: The absence of ultraheavyweight interfacing in the area you're pleating should enable you to make crisp folds.
3. Attach a vintage pin onto the right side of the tab's wide end, covering the stitching where the hook-and-loop tape was sewn.
4. Fold the clutch back over the clutch front, aligning the hook-and-loop closures, to complete the clutch.