Draw inspiration from the frigid weather outside and host a monogram holiday party in icy shades of blue.
- Computer and printer
- Crafts foam
- 1-1/2-x-1-3/4-inch piece of 1-inch-thick pine board
- Crafts glue
To make a letter stamp, use your computer and printer to print letters in a variety of fonts and sizes up to 2 1/4 inches tall. Transfer the letters onto crafts foam and carefully cut out. Apply a thick coat of crafts glue to one side of the pine. Arrange a letter front side down onto the wet glue. Let dry.
- Two colors of silk fabric
- Colored stamp pad
- Needle and sewing thread
- Matching broadcloth
- Computer and printer
- Two 6-inch squares of paper-backed fusible web
- Determine the desired finished length of your table runner; subtract 4 inches. Use this measurement to cut an 11-1/2-inch-wide center section from one silk fabric and two 3-1/2-inch-wide side border strips from the second silk fabric. Also, cut two 3-1/2-x-16-1/2-inch end border strips from the second fabric.
- Make letter stamps following the All-Purpose Letter Stamp directions on page 2.
- Test the stamp and ink on a scrap first, then stamp the letter images on the side and end border strips. Repeat the stamp as many times as necessary to completely cover each strip. Let the ink dry.
- With right sides together, sew a side border strip to each long edge of the center section with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowances away from the center section. Sew an end border strip to each short edge. Press the seam allowances toward the border strips.
- Use the pieced front as a pattern to cut a matching shape from the broadcloth for the back. With right sides together, sew the front to the back with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, leaving a 3-inch opening on one side. Trim the seams and corners. Turn the table runner right side out and press. Slip-stitch the opening closed.
- For the monogram, use your computer and printer to print a 4-inch-tall letter; cut out the letter. Fuse a square of web to the back of a 6-inch-square of silk, following the manufacturer's instructions. Place the letter right side down on the paper backing. Trace around the letter and cut out. Remove the paper backing. Position the letter, web side down, centered on one end of the table runner about 1 inch from the end border; fuse. Repeat for the opposite end.
- Two colors of silk fabric
- Needle and sewing thread
- Paper-backed 1/2-inch-wide fusible web tape
- 2-3/4-inch beaded tassel
- Sew-in craft-weight interfacing
- Iron-on crystal letter
- Velcro sticky dots
- Measure the distance around the slats on the chair back; add 6 inches. Use this measurement to cut two 3-1/2-inch-wide strips from one of the silk fabrics for the center section and two 1-3/4-inch-wide strips from the second for the borders.
- Center one 3-1/2-inch-wide center section strip on the other with wrong sides together. Press under 1/4 inch on one long edge of the 1-3/4-inch-wide border strip. With right sides facing, use a 1/4-inch seam allowance to sew the opposite edge of the border strip to one long edge of the layered center section. Press all seam allowances away from the center section. Apply fusible web tape over the pressed edge of the strip, following the manufacturer's instructions. Remove the paper backing. Fold the pressed edge to the back of the center section, covering the machine stitching; fuse. Repeat on the opposite edge.
- Press under 1/4 inch twice on one short edge of the chair wrap; slip-stitch in place. To shape the point, press under 1/4 inch on the remaining short edge and bring the corners up to meet on the back, creating a V shape; press. Position the tassel at the point, tucking the hanging loop between the fabric layers. Slip-stitch the edges together and to the back of the wrap, securing the tassel in the stitching.
- Apply the crystal letter to the front of the wrap 2 inches above the point. Position the wrap around the chair back and apply Velcro sticky dots to secure.
- Trace the stocking and cuff patterns, found in the link below, onto tracing paper; cut out. Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance with right sides facing when sewing the pieces together.
- Use contrasting two-ply embroidery floss to satin-stitch a 7/8-inch-tall monogram onto one piece of silk fabric. For the cuff front, trim the monogrammed silk into a 6-x-5-inch rectangle, centering the letter 1 1/8 inches above a 6-inch edge. For the cuff back, cut a second 6-x-5-inch rectangle from the same color of silk fabric.
- From the second silk fabric, cut two 6-x-8-inch rectangles for the stocking front and back. From the interfacing, cut two 6-x-8-inch rectangles and two 6-x-5-inch rectangles. Pin the interfacing rectangles to the wrong side of the corresponding silk rectangles. Sew the bottom edge of the cuff front to a 6-inch edge of the stocking front. Sew the remaining rectangles together in the same manner for the back. Press the seam allowances open.
- With the interfacing side up, position the stocking pattern on the front rectangles, aligning the cuff line on the pattern with the seam line and centering the monogram on the cuff. Trace around the pattern onto the interfacing. For the facing, draw a 2-inch line upward from each top corner of the traced stocking shape; connect the ends. Cut out the silk/interfacing stocking shape 1/2 inch beyond the traced lines. Cut the interfacing only along the top traced line of the cuff. For the stocking back, flip the pattern over and repeat on the pieced back rectangles. To hem the facing, press under 1/4 inch on the top edge of the stocking front and back; sew 1/8 inch from each pressed edge. Sew the stocking front to the back, leaving the hemmed facing edge open. Trim the seams, and clip the curves. Turn the stocking right side out. Finger-press the seams. Turn the facing down into the stocking and press. Tack facing in place at the side seams.
- Wrap pom-pom trim around the bottom edge of the cuff and sew in place.
- Spray adhesive
- Water-based fabric ink
- Stencil brush
- Assorted beads
- Matching sewing thread
Launder the napkins to remove any sizing; press. Lightly spray the back of the stencil with adhesive and position on one corner of the napkin. Dip the stencil brush in ink; wipe off almost all of the ink with a paper towel. Apply ink to the open areas of the stencil, dabbing the brush onto the napkin with an up and down motion. Remove the stencil and let the ink dry. Heat-set the ink following the manufacturer's instructions. Sew beads onto the napkins, referring to the photograph for placement ideas.
Wrap one end of the wire around the tip of the needle-nose pliers. Thread beads onto the straight end of the wire in the desired pattern; shape the wire into the letter shape. Twist the wire next to the last bead to secure; trim the excess wire. Tie the letter around the outside of the silk bag with fine cording.
- Attach a letter to one end of the wire. Thread a large bead onto the wire. Thread seed beads onto the wire in the desired pattern until the beaded area measures about 13 1/2 inches.
- Thread the remaining large bead onto the wire. Twist the wire around the tip of the needle-nose pliers to secure the beads, leaving about 1/2 inch of empty wire between the last bead and the twist. Cut off the excess wire. Wrap the beaded wire around a dowel or marker to spiral; slip off the dowel.
- Create letter stamps following the All-Purpose Letter Stamp directions on page 2.
- Cut two 3-x-1-1/2-inch side strips from one of the silk fabrics. Stamp the letters onto one side of the silk strips, repeating as many times as necessary to completely cover each strip. Let the ink dry.
- Cut one 4-x-11-1/2-inch center strip from the remaining silk fabric. With right sides together, sew a side strip to each long edge of the center strip with 1/2-inch seam allowances. Press the seam allowances away from the center.
- Use the pieced front as a pattern to cut a matching shape from the first color of silk for the lining. With right sides together, sew the front to the lining with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-inch-wide opening on one side. Trim the seams and corners. Turn the envelope right side out and press. Slip-stitch the opening closed.
- To make the pocket, fold up the bottom 3 inches; press and pin. Sew close to the left, top, and right edges of the envelope. To finish, thread the letter charm onto the ribbon and tie ribbon into a bow.
- Create the recipe cards by cutting card stock into 4-x-6-inch rectangles. Use a 1-1/2-inch-tall letter stamp (instructions on page 2) to add a monogram to the corner of each card. Handwrite recipes or run the cards through your printer. If desired, you can create additional letter stamps and stamp them onto the card stock with white ink before you add the final monogram.
- Measure the distance around a wine bottle; add 2 inches. Measure the wine bottle height and add 3 inches. Use these measurements to cut a rectangle from the interfacing. Cut a large rectangle the same width as the interfacing from each silk fabric. Cut the silk rectangles into strips of varying widths.
- Place one strip right side up on the interfacing, aligning the bottom and side edges. With right sides together, place a contrasting strip on the first strip, aligning the edges. Use a 1/4-inch seam allowance to sew the long edges together, sewing through both fabric layers and the interfacing. Open up the top strip and press. Continue adding alternating colored strips to completely cover the interfacing rectangle. Fold the pieced rectangle in half with right sides facing, aligning the seams. Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance to sew the long edges together for the center back, forming a tube. Do not turn.
- Measure the diameter of the circle at the bottom of the fabric tube. Use this measurement to cut a circle of silk and interfacing, adding 1/2-inch seam allowances. Center the silk circle right side up on the interfacing circle; baste together. Sew the layered circles to the bottom of the tube. Clip the curves and turn the bag right side out.
- To hem the top edge, turn under 1/2 inch twice and slip-stitch in place. Place wine bottle into bag and tie ribbon around neck.