Easy DIY Bathroom Projects

Add some pizzazz to a powder room with this chic wall covering. This easy, inexpensive, and big-impact wall treatment consists of tempered-glass notice boards from IKEA that are screwed to the wall. See the materials and tools needed for this project on the next slide, followed by the step-by-step instructions.

Tip: These tempered-glass notice boards can't be cut; this treatment is best for an area of wall without outlets or vents. Adjust spacing between boards as needed to fill your wall.

Frosted-glass notice boards (enough to cover your wall) with installation hardware

Paint, paint tray, paint roller, and brushes

Tape measure

Drill

Screwdriver

Anchors and screws appropriate for the wall material

Measure the glass board and the wall. Use these measurements to determine how many panels you need and how much space to leave between them.

Prep and paint the wall to be covered with the glass boards. Allow the paint to dry completely.

Measure and mark where the screw holders, which come with the boards, should be placed; screw them into the wall. It's ideal to install the panels into studs, but you can use anchors to install them into drywall.

Place the glass boards on the wall, lining up the predrilled holes with the screw holders. Using a drill or a screwdriver, install screws in all four corners of each panel and hand-twist the cover caps.

Save money and inject some personality into your bath by converting an existing dresser into a custom vanity. Excluding plumbing work, this project will take you only a few hours to complete. See the materials and tools needed for this project on the next slide, followed by the step-by-step instructions.

Dresser that fits in the available space and can accommodate the size and style of sink you're using

Sink and faucet

Positioning template (if your sink doesn't come with one, trace the sink outline and create one with paper)

Tape

Pencil or marker

Jigsaw

Remove the drawers and any drawer supports that will interfere with the plumbing. Decide where you want the sink to be placed on the dresser top. Tape the positioning template in the desired place; trace. If you will be mounting the faucet outside the sink, as in this example, mark its placement, too.

Determine the location of the water supply and drain lines. Mark this location on the back of the dresser. Using a jigsaw, cut the sink, faucet, and water-supply/drain-line openings.

Expert Tip: Make sure that the saw's footpad is smooth and clean so it will not mark or mar the cabinet-top finish. If possible, try the saw out on a similar board first.

Set the sink and faucet, following the manufacturer's instructions. Hook up the plumbing. Cut the backs of the drawers that surround the sink and/or plumbing so they fit into place. Use the jigsaw to remove the necessary portions. Reinsert the drawers.

If you are skilled at plumbing, you can hook up the plumbing yourself; otherwise, hire a professional plumber.

Cover your bathroom floor and shower walls with tile. See the materials and tools needed for this project on the next slide, followed by the step-by-step instructions. Remember that careful measurement and preparation are key when tiling a floor.

Tiles, tile adhesive, and grout

Cement board

Screwdriver, screws

Tape measure, pencil

Notched trowel

Spacers, tile scorer, and tile nippers

Wet saw (optional, and can be rented)

Float, sponges

Needle-nose pliers

Remove old flooring down to the subfloor. Attach cement board to the subfloor with screws. Measure the width of the floor, halve that number, and pencil a line at that point across the floor. Repeat the process to find the halfway point of the room's length, and pencil a mark across the floor from wall to wall. (You'll end up with two lines that intersect at the room's center).

Before applying adhesive, place the corner of the first tile at the point where the penciled lines intersect; center other tiles along one line, leaving about 1/4 inch between them for grout. Arrange the tiles so the least amount of cutting is necessary. Mark their location with a pencil, then remove them. Apply adhesive, such as mastic, to a 3-foot section with the notched trowel (shown in the photo) recommended by the adhesive manufacturer.

Following the pencil marks, lay the first tile in the adhesive. Use temporary spacers for even grout lines. Continue laying tile (shown in the photo) until you get to the walls; cut remaining tiles with a scorer to fit. If you need to tile around pipes or other items, use tile nippers, or consider renting a wet saw to make cutting and shaping tiles easier. Let adhesive dry as recommended by the manufacturer.

Remove the spacers with needle-nose pliers, then apply grout with a float (shown in the photo). Let it set about 15 minutes or for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer.

With a damp sponge, wipe grout residue from the faces of the tiles. Rinse the sponge frequently, and wipe tiles until all the residue is removed. Let grout dry as recommended by the manufacturer.